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This week, Lonely Planet Editor Ann Douglas Lott is sharing her top recommendations from her recent trip to Scotland. Read about the full itinerary here.
I am unafraid to admit that I love it when someone else takes the reins when planning a trip. Don’t think of it as lazy. If the right person is in charge – aka, a local or someone who has been multiple times – it’s the smartest travel decision you’ll ever make.
For example, work with one of the local experts at Elsewhere, Lonely Planet’s boutique travel-planning agency, and they’ll plan the dreamiest trip, filled with Scotland’s most authentic and memorable experiences, like catching the northern lights. (According to Elsewhere’s local Scotland expert Steven, this winter is the best time in the last 10 years to see them, and he has plenty of availability for you last-minute travelers!).
In short, I love to play passenger princess when it comes to travel. That’s why when I was invited by Visit Britain to visit Scotland (I wake up every day in awe that this is my job), I knew I’d hit the jackpot – because it’s literally their job to promote the best travel experiences across the UK!
Aside from the guidebook in my suitcase, I came into this adventure through the country’s lesser-traveled half with zero planning materials. My heart and mind were fully prepared to be present in the experiences that had been planned for me, stress-free. And I don’t gatekeep, so here’s the full itinerary.
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Born and raised in Birmingham, Alabama, I'm a Brooklyn transplant and editor who can't get enough of trips that involve life-altering meals, trains, hiking boots and loads of opportunities to break out my camera.
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Fly into Glasgow the night (or day, if you need more time like me) before you want your Scottish adventure to officially begin, giving yourself a jet lag adjustment period depending on where you’re coming from.
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The Glasgow Airport Express bus from the airport's main terminal takes 20–30 minutes direct to the city center (£10.50 per adult). There are also taxis waiting outside, which will set you back £30–40.
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In Glasgow, you can rely on public transportation. If you’re basing yourself in the city center, most major sites are walkable or bus-friendly. Take the Subway to get between the center and the West End. For the rest of this trip, a car is a must (it is a road trip, after all!).
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Just like onions and ogres, an appropriate outfit in Scotland has layers. Sweaters, a jacket, a warm hat and shoes that work for outdoor activities are musts. Also, sunglasses and sunscreen – the south typically gets more pleasant weather, especially in the high and shoulder seasons.
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Most visitors to Scotland land in Edinburgh and venture north. This alternative five-day itinerary explores the lesser-visited half’s highlights.
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A day in Glasgow: Kelvingrove, the Necropolis, tea time and more!
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Scotland’s biggest, grittiest and most underrated city.
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Start your day at Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum and explore its extensive galleries, with works ranging from Rembrandts to Viking-era carved stones. Then take a stroll around the adjacent Kelvingrove Park, wandering over to the University of Glasgow – its Gothic architecture bears a striking resemblance to Hogwarts. Once you’ve finished lunch (see below), head east to Glasgow Cathedral and wander the hilly Necropolis behind it. From the top, you’ll discover fantastic views of the entire city.
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Mackintosh at the Willow is the last remaining tea room in Glasgow designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh, serving tea to all classes of folks since 1903. You can book a guided tour and visit the museum next door to learn its story before sitting down for afternoon tea with all the trimmings. There are other Willow tea rooms across the city, but this is the original real deal on Sauchiehall St. For dinner, Mharsanta’s modern Scottish menu is a cozy choice.
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Since you’re only here for one day, maximize your time getting from place to place and stay in the city center. The Address just opened in 2024 and is a stylish and relatively affordable option with an ideal location.
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Go castle-hopping around Fife
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Monty Python fans will recognize this place!
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Travel back to the height of Scottish clan history.
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This day trip follows a loop that starts and ends in Glasgow (though you could technically wrap up the day in Edinburgh if you prefer). Head out early, as you’ll want to linger at each stop, getting lost in the many rooms and stories of every castle. It’s around a 30- to 50-minute drive between stops.
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Today’s adventure is not only historic but also cinematic – each stop also features filming locations from popular movies and shows like Outlander, Outlaw King, Monty Python and more. Note that you will need to pay for a ticket at each castle, around £5–10 each.
First, head to Doune Castle, whose exterior you may recognize from that Trojan Rabbit scene in Monty Python and the Holy Grail. Opt into the listening guide, as you’ll gain far more insight as you wander the property. Then go to the adorable village of Falkland, featured in the opening scene of Outlander and also where you’ll find Falkland Castle, a country residence of the Stuart monarchs.
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Grab lunch in Falkland (see below) and continue on to Midhope Castle (Outlander fans, you’ll recognize this one). While the structure is not currently stable enough to enter, guests may roam around outside. Exciting plans are also in place to build a distillery on the property.
Next up is Blackness Castle, which for much of its history served as a prison (a posh prison at that – the views from the top are extraordinary). Wrap up the day in Culross, a former royal burgh with peaceful, cobblestone streets, colorful homes with red-tile roofs and romantic passageways to get lost in. Pop into Culross Palace for a tour to keep up the royal theme.
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Have lunch in Falkland at Campbell’s House. After a day of driving, snag a dinner reservation at the Gannet for a much-deserved meal of fine Scottish dining.
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Head back to your Glasgow accommodation to rest up before your journey to Loch Lomond tomorrow.
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Photography credits: Dale Kelly/Shutterstock, Ann Douglas Lott/Lonely Planet, AC Manley/Shutterstock
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